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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, I just finished upgrading sound deadening in my 4 doors and unplugged speakers and the door wiring harness bus connectors etc to access everything properly. Aside from my 4 doors being properly sound deadened, now 3 of my 4 door 6x9’s don’t work. Dash speakers sub and right rear door all work great.

my local audio shop says the amp or head unit may have gone into protection mode when it detected the speakers missing, but since they are connected again I figured it should reset at some point but it hasn’t.

move tried a dash reboot in the menu and then tried disconnecting the system twice for 15 or so min to force a reset. I even unplugged the amp under the dash for a few min to see if that would shake it loose.
worked great before what trick am I missing?
 

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Copied this, hope it helps

Electrical Diagnosis and Testing

  1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Turn the radio receiver ON. Adjust the balance and fader controls to check the performance of each individual speaker. Note the speaker locations that are not performing correctly. Go to Step 2.

    NOTE:​
    Subwoofer channel will not fade forward or rearward. Use the bass control to check the subwoofer channel output.​
  2. Turn the radio receiver OFF. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the radio receiver from the instrument panel. Disconnect the wire harness connector at the power amplifier. Check both the speaker feed (+) circuit and return (–) circuit cavities for the inoperative speaker location(s) at the radio receiver wire harness connectors for continuity to ground. In each case, there should be no continuity. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the shorted speaker feed (+) and or return (–) circuit(s) to the speaker as required.
  3. For each inoperative speaker location, check for continuity between the speaker feed (+) circuit cavities of the radio receiver wire harness connectors and the power amplifier wire harness connectors. Repeat the check for each inoperative speaker location between the speaker return (–) circuit cavities of the radio receiver wire harness connectors and the power amplifier wire harness connectors. In each case, there should be continuity. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the open speaker feed (+) and or return (–) circuit(s) as required.
  4. Check for continuity between the two ground circuit cavities of the power amplifier wire harness connector and a good ground. There should be continuity. If OK, go to Step 5. If not OK, repair the open ground circuit(s) to ground as required.
  5. Install the radio receiver. Connect the battery negative cable. Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) fuse for the power amplifier in the Power Distribution Center (PDC). If OK, go to Step 6. If not OK, repair the open fused B(+) circuit to the PDC fuse as required.
  6. Check for battery voltage at the two fused B(+) circuit cavities of the power amplifier wire harness connector. If OK, go to Step 7. If not OK, repair the open fused B(+) circuit(s) to the power amplifier fuse in the junction block as required.
  7. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Turn the radio receiver ON. Check for battery voltage at the enable signal to amplifier circuit cavity of the power amplifier wire harness connector. If OK, go to Step 8. If not OK, repair the open enable signal to amplifier circuit to the radio receiver as required.
  8. Turn the radio receiver OFF. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. For each inoperative speaker location, check both the amplified feed (+) circuit and the amplified return (–) circuit cavities of the power amplifier wire harness connectors for continuity to ground. In each case there should be no continuity. If OK, go to Step 9. If not OK, repair the shorted amplified feed (+) and or amplified return (–) circuit(s) to the speaker as required.
  9. Disconnect the speaker wire harness connector at the inoperative speaker. Check for continuity between the amplified feed (+) circuit cavities of the speaker wire harness connector and the power amplifier wire harness connector. Repeat the check between the amplified return (–) circuit cavities of the speaker wire harness connector and the power amplifier wire harness connector. In each case there should be continuity. If OK, replace the faulty speaker. If not OK, repair the open amplified feed (+) and or amplified return (–) circuit(s) as required. If condition is still present, go to Step 10.
  10. For each inoperative speaker location, check the resistance between the amplified feed (+) circuit and the amplified return (–) circuit cavities of the power amplifier wire harness connectors. The meter should read between 3 and 5 ohms (speaker resistance). If OK, replace the faulty power amplifier.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well that is going to take some time to go through for sure! I was hoping for a reset feature to wake up the dead channels hahahaha! Everything seemed to be working fine before I did the sound deadening :(

Copied this, hope it helps

Electrical Diagnosis and Testing

  1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Turn the radio receiver ON. Adjust the balance and fader controls to check the performance of each individual speaker. Note the speaker locations that are not performing correctly. Go to Step 2.

    NOTE:​
    Subwoofer channel will not fade forward or rearward. Use the bass control to check the subwoofer channel output.​
  2. Turn the radio receiver OFF. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the radio receiver from the instrument panel. Disconnect the wire harness connector at the power amplifier. Check both the speaker feed (+) circuit and return (–) circuit cavities for the inoperative speaker location(s) at the radio receiver wire harness connectors for continuity to ground. In each case, there should be no continuity. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the shorted speaker feed (+) and or return (–) circuit(s) to the speaker as required.
  3. For each inoperative speaker location, check for continuity between the speaker feed (+) circuit cavities of the radio receiver wire harness connectors and the power amplifier wire harness connectors. Repeat the check for each inoperative speaker location between the speaker return (–) circuit cavities of the radio receiver wire harness connectors and the power amplifier wire harness connectors. In each case, there should be continuity. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the open speaker feed (+) and or return (–) circuit(s) as required.
  4. Check for continuity between the two ground circuit cavities of the power amplifier wire harness connector and a good ground. There should be continuity. If OK, go to Step 5. If not OK, repair the open ground circuit(s) to ground as required.
  5. Install the radio receiver. Connect the battery negative cable. Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) fuse for the power amplifier in the Power Distribution Center (PDC). If OK, go to Step 6. If not OK, repair the open fused B(+) circuit to the PDC fuse as required.
  6. Check for battery voltage at the two fused B(+) circuit cavities of the power amplifier wire harness connector. If OK, go to Step 7. If not OK, repair the open fused B(+) circuit(s) to the power amplifier fuse in the junction block as required.
  7. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Turn the radio receiver ON. Check for battery voltage at the enable signal to amplifier circuit cavity of the power amplifier wire harness connector. If OK, go to Step 8. If not OK, repair the open enable signal to amplifier circuit to the radio receiver as required.
  8. Turn the radio receiver OFF. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. For each inoperative speaker location, check both the amplified feed (+) circuit and the amplified return (–) circuit cavities of the power amplifier wire harness connectors for continuity to ground. In each case there should be no continuity. If OK, go to Step 9. If not OK, repair the shorted amplified feed (+) and or amplified return (–) circuit(s) to the speaker as required.
  9. Disconnect the speaker wire harness connector at the inoperative speaker. Check for continuity between the amplified feed (+) circuit cavities of the speaker wire harness connector and the power amplifier wire harness connector. Repeat the check between the amplified return (–) circuit cavities of the speaker wire harness connector and the power amplifier wire harness connector. In each case there should be continuity. If OK, replace the faulty speaker. If not OK, repair the open amplified feed (+) and or amplified return (–) circuit(s) as required. If condition is still present, go to Step 10.
  10. For each inoperative speaker location, check the resistance between the amplified feed (+) circuit and the amplified return (–) circuit cavities of the power amplifier wire harness connectors. The meter should read between 3 and 5 ohms (speaker resistance). If OK, replace the faulty power amplifier.
 

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I’d skip right to step 5. It might be something as simple as a fuse. I’m assuming you inspected the pins at connector. Those things deform easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well that’s on my list today to have a good look at all the connectors I seperated and start with the easy stuff before I take anything apart again.

I’d skip right to step 5. It might be something as simple as a fuse. I’m assuming you inspected the pins at connector. Those things deform easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Turns out there was corrosion on the speaker connectors, so when I unplugged them and plugged them back in I guess they sat in a more corroded spot. I cleaned them and everything works fine now.

Surprised on the super cheap connectors, but then again I shouldn’t be I guess. Good excuse to buy new door speakers on the near future ;)


I’d skip right to step 5. It might be something as simple as a fuse. I’m assuming you inspected the pins at connector. Those things deform easily.
 
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