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Wow those are some great shot!
Truck looks great as well!
You make me want to jump in the truck and go find some trails. LOL
 
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Discussion Starter #42
Wow those are some great shot!
Truck looks great as well!
You make me want to jump in the truck and go find some trails. LOL
Thanks Baron! It is always a blast to go wheeling in southern CO. Hope to have some desert wheeling soon as well!
 

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Incredible build. And the details are wonderful!!
to be be clear, how much was your lift total after all was said and done? And the rims offset? I would like a similar setup, I don’t like the tires sticking out the sides look, I like tall and mean, but barely fitting style.
everything about this build just seems so spot on and sensible.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Incredible build. And the details are wonderful!!
to be be clear, how much was your lift total after all was said and done? And the rims offset? I would like a similar setup, I don’t like the tires sticking out the sides look, I like tall and mean, but barely fitting style.
everything about this build just seems so spot on and sensible.
@Rabbit929; my apologies as I just realized I had not responded to your questions! :oops:

The Fabtech 3-inch Dirt Logic system netted about 2.5-inches of actual lift (maybe a tad more on the driver side so going to balance that out) over the factory Rebel ride height (so 3.5-inches over a standard Ram 4x4) with the tires providing just over 1/2-inch of additional ride height; so in total, I am currently sitting just over 3.5 inches over the factory Rebel 4x4 ride height. There is still some room (maybe about 1/2-inch more) but I am retaining that for final side to side adjustments as well as for maintaining my current, comfortable ride quality.

The wheels have 0MM offset which brings the tires right to the edge of the factory fender flares. Like you, I did not want any exposed tread outside of the wheels wells to help control the amount of road or trail debris flying up along the sides of the truck and pitting out the paint.

Thank you for the great compliments!
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Aftermarket Exhaust System Selection

The next modification will be the exhaust. While the Ram already has a nice sound to it, it is lacking compared to my Toyota TRD exhaust system which sounded great right from the factory (as an optional upgrade)! In the past, I have tried Flowmaster, Gibson, and Magnaflow systems. In general, I found the Flowmasters can have a great low end growl but can also done heavily out on the highway; Gibsons are nice quality systems but are more sedated at WOT, and; Magnaflows typically provide a nice balance in moderate to WOT throttle response but easy on the ears at lower RPM and don't done at speed. So the latter has been my "go to" for several builds now.

But I am not sure I want to invest in another grand or more on a replacement system as I have plans down the road for a supercharger. So I really think I just want to add a touch more sound without breaking the bank until I am ready to really open up the entire exhaust system to handle the air mass from the supercharged engine. I also don't want anything to wake the neighbors as I already have a couple of obnoxious gear heads in the neighborhood that believe everyone appreciates their thunderous exhausts that drown out your conversations outside as they drive by (over and over again, lol). Since I already like Magnaflow, I think a good option right now is to try the new Hemi SS Magnaflow Retro Fit Exhaust System from B2 Fabrication.



I believe some folks on the forum have installed this system on their Rams and are pretty happy with it. The system is relatively inexpensive and looks like a simple, quick bolt-on installation involving some measuring and cutting to fit the replacement muffler using the factory exhaust piping. Be curious if anyone has any additional feedback since their installations!

 

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Discussion Starter #46
Side Step Selection

While pondering my exhaust upgrade, I also was evaluating what kind of side steps I wanted.

First, I should clarify that I typically don’t like them (from an off-roading perspective) since most designs detract from the vehicles' clearance and may even decrease the break-over angle. But they are a necessary evil if I am to use my vehicle as a daily driver along with being a weekend warrior; at 6’ 3”, I personally have no issues getting into or out of my lifted Rebel, but my wife is a lot shorter at only 5’-3” and I also have other shorter/older occupants I need to consider.

Originally, I had planned on going with the AMP Research power retractable side steps. I have installed them on at least 4 other builds and the systems always performed flawlessly for me in all weather conditions (admittedly, I don’t live in an area that gets ice storms where I am sure the motor linkage assemblies might freeze up). But for occasional water crossings and desert/dune runs, the motors are sealed pretty well and so never any performance issues. In addition, since the AMP steps retract high up under the vehicle, I have never had any clearance issues for the type of trails I typically run.

However, as is typical of me when I am ready to order something, I started second guessing myself. While I don’t mind paying top dollar for top quality gear, the AMP asking price of ~$1500-$1900 per set (depending on the model) is high enough to give some pause as I could invest in some real rock sliders at that price.

While some have done a great job of fabricating their own and/or going to a local shop, I don’t have the patience, talent, and time so decided to look into some quality rock slider fabricators online. Not too many options out there (yet) but these looked very good and I almost called them:

RAM 1500 - White Knuckle Off Road Products
https://www.mapleoffroad.com/new-products/dodge-3rd-amp-4th-gen-rock-sliders-with-rub-rail


Photo Courtesy of White Knuckle Offroad

But as I thought about it, I had to remind myself that I am not planning on taking my daily driver on highly advanced trails with large, car-sized boulders that I want to climb over. Moderate trailing is all I really want to do with this rig (if not, I will build a Jeep). Also, while newer rock slider designs can now be outfitted with a steel mesh or diamond plate step, the slider height (on the lifted truck) really doesn’t help my vertically challenged passengers. So I nixed that tempting idea.

Next was the “soft” slider/running board options offered by Go Rhino (Dominator Series), n-Fab (various), Westin (Outlaw Series), and others. I say “soft” slider as these are really just nerf bars/running boards with an extra rub rail/tube underneath. While that may provide some minor protection, the systems attach to the body, not the frame, so will not support any vehicle weight at all. But I thought the designs were more interesting and fitting the style of an off-road vehicle more so than the typical flat, wide running boards also offered by the same manufacturers. The argument for selecting a flat, wide running board however is that you get a continuous platform to stand on along the entire length of the cab and you may even get a measure of ding protection from those obnoxious parking lot patrons.

Anyway, my preference was the n-Fab selections mostly due to the fact that I have used several of their products in the past and was always pleased with the quality and n-Fab’s service. In full disclosure, n-Fab still uses a couple of my photos from previous builds to advertise their products (and so now does Walmart, CARiD, and others…lol) but I am not a paid endorser.

Also, n-Fab recently came back on my radar as a friend of mine, who also purchased his Rebel around the same as mine, had just installed a set of their powder-coated RKR Nerf Step System which includes an under rub tube and detachable side steps.

I really like his setup but the drop steps are really quite narrow and I thought might be problematic for some as they are hard to find when exiting the vehicle (or when I get older and can’t see so well). o_O So instead, I thought I would go with the beefier looking Podium LG & SS side steps as they are constructed with a 3-inch stainless steel tube with integrated steps that are much larger (and therefore safer and more functional). The main tube also sits high and tight to the vehicle body for a clean modern style.

Eventually I decided that the 3-inch round tubes with larger drop steps would just detract from the additional ground clearance (and increased break-over angle) I achieved with my recent 3-inch lift on the Rebel. I nixed that idea as well.

So I am back to the AMP retractable steps as they drop well below the rocker panel to provide a low, wide, safe step up for others while retracting fully up under the rocker panels to retain my ground clearance when four wheeling. In addition, you can have the side steps in the extended position for a platform along the entire body side (vs. a small step) for when cleaning the vehicle and/or accessing the roof. I have taken these steps off-roading on many a desert and mountain trail with my moderately lifted (3-4 inch) vehicles in the past with never an issue (again, avoiding highly technical trails).

I upgraded this time to their Powerstep XL version which is specifically designed for lifted trucks as the running boards drop an additional 3-inches than their standard version but retract into an integrated “rocker rail” for a seamless look. The system is made of aluminum so lighter than more of the other nerf/running board options and comes with an ORB “plug and play” connection.




Photos Courtesy of Amp Research

I ordered the steps through Amazon and should have them by this weekend. The best thing is I caught the last pair they sold under a special offering that was almost $600 under the list price, so really a win! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #47
AMP Research Power Step XL Install

As mentioned previously, I am a big fan of the AMP Research Power Steps having installed them on several of my trucks. But I am NOT a fan of installing these things, at all. Is not because the installation is extremely difficult because it isn't if you have basic automotive and electrical skills and tools, but the steps are a major pain in the derriere especially if you don't have a lift. I converted my old shop into a garage/man cave sort of thing but my roof is rather low and so haven't worked out the lift details. Since I just had my truck lifted, I didn't bother about putting it up on jack stands to give me a little more room but it would have made the install a tad easier; the steps have to be installed in the deployed position to fit and align with the motor/idler arm assemblies and therefore cannot be retracted until powered up. The XL steps extend just a tad more than the standard steps which decreases the available space between the floor and the extended step. I knew this but my impatience proved out as it took me almost 8 hours to install versus the usual 5-6 hours (note; AMP Research suggests that you will need 3-5 hours of installation assuming you're a skilled mechanic, just saying).



One of the things I am a stickler about, especially when receiving packaged goods, is to unpack everything to visually inspect the condition and make sure all of the parts are actually accounted for. Nothing worse than getting more than 50% through something only to find out you're missing a key bolt or part. Everything looked good and ready to go!



Part of accounting for all of the parts is to organize everything before getting started. I like using old ammo trays to separate all of the small pieces and contain them especially since I have a penchant for knocking small items off my work bench or kicking them under something without realizing it and then spending hours looking for it...lol.



After getting organized, another anal thing I do is clean everything before I start working. So I wiped down the engine bay as well as under the rocker panels so that no loose dirt/mud gets in the way or falls into my eyes when working. The other thing I did was make sure the factory body panel studs were also cleaned so that the nuts would not bind up and/or over torque the studs.



One of the first steps is to install the rail brackets to the rails (specific for the XL model only). One tip to save time/effort later is to measure exactly as recommended in the instructions (which are actually lacking in a lot of detail, unfortunately). I was able to slide under the truck with the rails on my chest and lifted them directly onto the studs so that part was actually quite easy.



The instructions do include torque specs for most of the bolts and so I highly recommend using a torque wrench (not that I have ever over torqued anything before :whistle:).




For my setup, I had to attach the motor assemblies (sometimes they come pre-attached). But I was very happy to see that the gear drive housing covers actually fit perfectly and so I didn't have to trim anything like on previous models. Anyway, the motor assemblies and idler arms connect very nicely to the factory studs without the need for any drilling (which is nice since I had to also drill and install rivet nuts on other builds). For both the XL and non-XL models, it is always a good idea to leave everything loose so that you have enough play to line up/mount the assemblies and then the step boards. Getting the step boards onto the arms can be a hassle since you have to seat the T-nuts into the arm pockets and secure with the supplied socket cap screws. To make this easy, simply stick a thin Allen wrench through a mounting hole in the arms and slide the T-bar and align its mounting hole to the Allen wrench and drop into place. A more painstaking task is aligning the step boards centered with the rail assemblies (again, because I am anal, I measured everything 3-4 times along with using various levels).



Once secured, I went back under the truck and tightened everything to spec. Now ready for the real work; the electrical hook up.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
AMP Research Power Step XL Install (continued)

Now my model is "plug and play" which sounds great unless you are obsessed in making sure everything looks factory clean! So after laying out the harness across the engine compartment, I was able to decide how I wanted everything to mount and look. AMP suggests that you mount the step controller to the existing factory conduit in the engine bay. I was not liking that idea as I wanted the module as high as possible and easy to disconnect if needed, so I drilled a couple of holes in the molded cover (and underlying steel) on top of the firewall and installed the module using the supplied zip ties. I then removed the supplied in-line 30 amp fuse and connected the module to the battery and zip tied everything with my Rigid light wiring for a nice bundled look.



After getting the module mounted, I then opened up the electrical chase that runs along the top of the engine bay (under the plastic cover per above) and inserted the passenger side harness wiring through the chase. This was actually not as easy as I had hoped since it is hard to reach and I always worried about breaking the plastic tabs that insert into the metal receivers but I took my time and didn't break anything. The result is a completely clean, factory looking install within the engine compartment with minimal exposed wire loom.



After that, I dropped both the driver and passenger side wiring down along the wheel wells and made sure nothing was touching anything mechanical or anything that might get hot. Once down the sides, I threaded the harness through the frame/bracket openings up along the under body side sheet metal and zip tied as much as possible to keep in place. After getting the wiring along both sides laid out, I decided where I wanted to place the LED step light brackets to make sure I would have enough play to attach.

I actually debated about installing the LED step lights because on prior models, the lights are simply pressed onto the rocker panels and required drilling through the pinch weld areas to pass the wiring through. I never liked that idea, as well as reports of the two-sided 3M tape not holding up, so I always skipped this step. But with the XL, you get these slick metal brackets that attach to the rails and not to the rocker panels. They are tucked up high with no need to drill through the body. So I decided to give it a try. Also, if the tape does not hold up, I can replace it along with the fact that I have a nice cache of replacement LED lights that I kept from previous installations.

Next, you have to pass through the firewall so that the trigger wires can be wired up to the supplied OBD II plug. I wasn't relishing this task either as it is always a pain fishing something through a rubber boot to pass through the wires. But I followed the instructions that suggested you use the boot right below the steering column. I don't know why I didn't see/use this when I wired my two pairs of Rigid rights, but it was a lot simpler this time just using a hanger and electrical tape.



Getting the OBD II connected to the green port tray located in the side panel was a lot harder, especially if you have big hands as I could barely reach up under the dash to the plug. You can use any open port in the tray but of course the only open port I had was at the very top. Also, at over 6' tall, getting underneath the dash enough while holding a light and the 2-pin connector was a chore too. Anyway, after a few frustrating attempts, I got it in (no jokes allowed).



After zip tying everything up high under the dash, it was time to check everything and then clean up before reinstalling the 30-amp in-line fuse. As soon as I did, I heard the whir of the motor arms as the steps retracted immediately under the rocker panels. So the first good news is I didn't hear any clunking of the steps that might suggest hitting of the rail assemblies. The second good news is the LED lights worked!



I was ecstatic as I was finally done...except for one little observation; when I opened the driver side door, the passenger side step would extend or retract and the same for the passenger side door that activated the driver side. WTF (What the Frak) ? :mad: I knew I wired everything right (hard to mess up the passenger side wiring since the driver side wiring is way too short to reach the passenger side)! I went round and round on what might be wrong and even hunted for troubleshooting tips online (to no avail). But then it occurred to me that it must be the OBD II plug; either I used the wrong port or it's defective. I revisited the port tray and there was no other place to plug in so that could not be it. I checked the AMP instructions and there is no mention at all of any wiring preference for driver vs. passenger side, so what could it be?

Turns out, I am just color blind enough not to notice the subtle difference in the trigger wire coloring. I disconnected the OBD II plug and exchanged the two wire connections...bingo!

 

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Aftermarket Exhaust System Selection

The next modification will be the exhaust. While the Ram already has a nice sound to it, it is lacking compared to my Toyota TRD exhaust system which sounded great right from the factory (as an optional upgrade)! In the past, I have tried Flowmaster, Gibson, and Magnaflow systems. In general, I found the Flowmasters can have a great low end growl but can also done heavily out on the highway; Gibsons are nice quality systems but are more sedated at WOT, and; Magnaflows typically provide a nice balance in moderate to WOT throttle response but easy on the ears at lower RPM and don't done at speed. So the latter has been my "go to" for several builds now.

But I am not sure I want to invest in another grand or more on a replacement system as I have plans down the road for a supercharger. So I really think I just want to add a touch more sound without breaking the bank until I am ready to really open up the entire exhaust system to handle the air mass from the supercharged engine. I also don't want anything to wake the neighbors as I already have a couple of obnoxious gear heads in the neighborhood that believe everyone appreciates their thunderous exhausts that drown out your conversations outside as they drive by (over and over again, lol). Since I already like Magnaflow, I think a good option right now is to try the new Hemi SS Magnaflow Retro Fit Exhaust System from B2 Fabrication.



I believe some folks on the forum have installed this system on their Rams and are pretty happy with it. The system is relatively inexpensive and looks like a simple, quick bolt-on installation involving some measuring and cutting to fit the replacement muffler using the factory exhaust piping. Be curious if anyone has any additional feedback since their installations!

I’m picking up two Black Widow Race Venom mufflers on the first. I’m going to build myself and one extra bolt on exhaust system that will be similar to the B2 system.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I’m picking up two Black Widow Race Venom mufflers on the first. I’m going to build myself and one extra bolt on exhaust system that will be similar to the B2 system.
Nice! The B2 Magnaflow retrofit is pretty quiet; you hear more rumble and its only really noticeable at WOT but even then it's not loud by any means. I like it.

Based on some Black Widow Race Venom mufflers I have viewed, the mufflers seem a tad more throatier and louder. They sound great!
 

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Nice! The B2 Magnaflow retrofit is pretty quiet; you hear more rumble and its only really noticeable at WOT but even then it's not loud by any means. I like it.

Based on some Black Widow Race Venom mufflers I have viewed, the mufflers seem a tad more throatier and louder. They sound great!
My son had an 05 Ram 1500 that I installed a Race Venom on and we were really pleased with it. Even my wife voted for the Race Venom when I was deciciding what muffler to use on my Rebel.
 

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I like my corsa extreme system. Expensive, but no drone whatsoever l, no resonators, 5” tips are killer, nice mean cold start but almost unnoticeable at idle when hot.
it’s got the best accelerating sound that reminds you it’s there, and when you floor it it turns heads. Like a wild cat scream.
it has something to do with the muffler design, at lower velocities the air gets filtered through the baffles, and at wot the air flows through the straight-through design of the muffler.
I really wish we had a car club around here where I could hear the borla, but corsa has a quality to it that just seems unmatchable for most other engineered systems.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Aftermarket Exhaust

I finally got my B2 Fabrication Stainless Steel Magnaflow Retrofit Exhaust System installed. It arrived in great condition as everything was wrapped up really well with no signs of damage (which is always a relief in itself as I hate the hassle of returning something this large after waiting for it to arrive...lol). I really liked the metal stamping on the SS muffler itself...nice touch.





Simple tools needed are 13MM socket, 5/8-inch socket, 11/16-wrench or socket, hand ratchet with at least a 6-inch extender, hack saw or reciprocating saw, torque wrench, muffler strap removal tool, and silicon sealant. The muffler is shipped with (2) bolts and corresponding washers and nuts, and a sticker. Hard to imagine it would take 3-4 hours to install based on the packaging but I thought maybe it was because of the sticker.



Crawling under the truck once again, I am always amazed on how massive the Ram's factory muffler really is (and heavy too).





Anyway, the first thing you have to do is make a 1-1/4" inch mark behind the factory muffler outlet. Considering the factory welding is not perfectly symmetrical, there is some room for error but the new muffler outlet uses an expanded tube that gets clamped down so you don't need to be exact. Still, it is always nerve wracking to cut into brand new factory parts. I was not about to spend 30 mins or more trying to cut through the exhaust tubing by hand with a hack saw, so I used a reciprocating saw and got the factory exhaust tubing cut in under a minute.





The next step is to remove the muffler from the front pipe flange (2 bolts); I did so but then loosely fitted back with one bolt to keep the muffler from sliding off the front strap. The front (black) rubber strap is very easy to slip off the hanger but the two rear (red) rubber straps are pretty frustrating to do without a strap removal tool (I didn't have one). I sprayed the hangers with WD-40 and basically had to compress and twist the straps until I was able to slide off the hanger. I am sure there more effective ways to do this without using the specialty tool. You need to remove the steel gasket from the front flange (simple pressure tabs per photo below) as the gasket needs to be reused on the B2 Fab muffler. Also, don't forget to disconnect the grounding strap (hanging in photo below).





 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
Aftermarket Exhaust (continued)

To install the new B2 Fab Magnaflow muffler, you need to install the factory gasket on the inlet pipe and slide the tube clamp over the expanded outlet pipe. B2 recommends to first bolt the system onto the front flange but I found that it made it too difficult in getting the resonator pipe inserted in the new muffler's outlet tubing. So instead, I attached the muffler strap on the front (since it easily slips right on), inserted the resonator pipe into the muffler's outlet tube, attached the two red muffler straps on the rear, then bolted the front flange with the supplied nuts, washers, and bolts. After securing the front, I then tightened the rear tube clamp securing the resonator pipe inside the new muffler outlet tube. B2 Fab also recommends using a silicone sealant inside the outlet tube before tightening, but I didn't have any so I just made sure the tube was completely inserted and very tight.





Finally, the most intensive part of the install was finding a place to install the provided sticker. After wasting an inordinate amount of time, I decided not to install the sticker so I am really hoping that doesn't effect the performance!

After checking that everything cleared and nothing would rattle, and reconnecting the grounding strap, I checked the alignment of the factory tailpipes and all looks great!

Initial Impressions

Upon start up, you are greeted with a lower, slightly more purposeful sound than the factory setup. It doesn't bellow as much like a complete cat-back system. Instead, it has a more subtle but richer tone to it. At idle and very low rpms, you notice the richer tones but it is not loud at all. Upon WOT however, you do notice the deeper, more powerful sounds but without any real intrusion into the cab and no drone at all at higher rpms; it just sounds really good without being obnoxious in any way. Best way to put it is the exhaust sounds purposeful but mature, not anywhere near "let's turn heads" levels. For those that might want more than what I am describing, another option is to pair this system with the B2 Fab resonator delete system for a more throatier, louder experience (at expense of some drone into the cab).

I need to post a video.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
One of things I have been wanting to share is some artwork that I have in my garage/shop. My brother is a professional graphic artist and has done a number of works for rock bands, music festivals, horror houses, and so forth. Anyway, he created these for me over the years.

Of course, my avatar:




My recent lighted Desert Dawg sign I use in my shop over the beer fridge (have to squint to see in 2nd photo...lol):





Another couple of shop signs I have hanging up:





I have this hanging up in the shop too:



He has quite a few others of which some I don't even have framed yet. But if interested, you can check out some of his other work if you Google images for "Phil Fensterer". Just thought it would be fun to share.
 

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Desert Dawg, I love your builds, and actually pretty much copied your Red F-150 Platinum on my last truck. I just bought a 2019 Ram Limited and am adding a cap. How do you compare the ARE Z2 to the Snugtop XTR you used to have? I'm planning on going with the ARE or the Snugtop Supersport (never used the XTR rack so I'll add the rails to whichever one I get)

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Desert Dawg, I love your builds, and actually pretty much copied your Red F-150 Platinum on my last truck. I just bought a 2019 Ram Limited and am adding a cap. How do you compare the ARE Z2 to the Snugtop XTR you used to have? I'm planning on going with the ARE or the Snugtop Supersport (never used the XTR rack so I'll add the rails to whichever one I get)

Thanks
Thanks for following along and pretty cool you did same with my Ford; it's funny, Snugtop is still using a thumbnail pic of my red Platinum F150 on their website!

I seriously reconsidered the Snugtop XTR again as I really liked the looks of it on all three of my F150s but wasn't really sure if it would look as good on the Ram based on the online photos I found (the rear 3/4 views looked a bit off to me on the Rams). But still, if I went with Snugtop again, I would have picked the XTR/Super Sport models.

In the end, it came down to design aesthetics and improved quality with the ARE Z2 Series. Aesthetically, the Z2 looks better IMHO especially with the integrated flush side pop-open vent windows, no protruding mounting hardware on the side or rear glass panels, and nicely formed fiberglass cover strip at the bottom of the door that matches the tailgates contours perfectly. So overall, I thought the ARE Z2 just looked a tad better with the Ram design lines.

As far as quality, the ARE heavy-duty C-spring hinges and slam latch system are a lot more robust than the Snugtop versions (much smaller flanges). I also prefer the design and feel of the rear latch system on the ARE. Interior wise, both are pretty comparable to each other.

You can't go wrong either way. I had a top-of-the-line LEER topper too; while nice, it wasn't quite up to the level of the Snugtops or AREs that I had.
 

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Discussion Starter #59 (Edited)

I had Desert Rat Off-Road Center look at the sway bar links and they stated that the links looked fine despite the boot looking stressed. Unfortunately, I did not think of taking a photo of the links when I had the Falcon suspension installed for comparison. I usually have Desert Rat inspect the suspension, wheels, etc. at least twice a year so will continue checking the links as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
Yakima Roof Rack System

Since I had ordered my ARE Z-2 Series topper with the Yakima roof rails, I decided to install my Yakima HD Cross-bar system that I retained from my 2018 Titan PRO 4X build. Of course, the first step was to dry fit everything before I chopped up the expensive cross-bars. I measured everything over and over again to make sure it would clear my shop's garage door. Talk about close...glad I didn't choose a tire with another 1/2-inches of height!





The cross-bars were 72-inches wide as I had them installed across the retractable tonneau cover on the Titan but were much too wide for placing on the roof of the topper. I really like clean lines, so I decided that I didn't want to extend past the curve of the topper roof ; I used a reciprocating saw to reduce each of the bars down to 54-inches wide including the end caps. This necessitated drilling new cap holes for mounting back on the bar but everything turned out as expected.



Here you can see how the bars are fitted with the curve of the topper roof for a clean but functional look:









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