Lifting the Rebel
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I agree, 2" to 4" would be perfect.
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104 Posts
If you guys lift it, keep us posted.
Im still working on tint and light bars. Budget ya know!
Im still working on tint and light bars. Budget ya know!
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10 Posts
BDS makes a lift 4" lift kit for the air ride system
Suspension Lift Kits BDS Suspension Jeep Chevy Ford Dodge Toyota
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78 Posts
I looked up that BDS kit and the price is very reasonable. I thought I read somewhere on this site that someone actually installed it already but I can't find where I read it.
I'm tempted to do it but I have the lifetime warranty and I plan on keeping this truck a longtime and don't want to hear that I voided the warranty by altering it.
I'm tempted to do it but I have the lifetime warranty and I plan on keeping this truck a longtime and don't want to hear that I voided the warranty by altering it.
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High Caliber Motorsports did one
Mobile Uploads - High Caliber Motorsports | Facebook
Mobile Uploads - High Caliber Motorsports | Facebook
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78 Posts
That's the one I was thinking of.
*sigh* I Guess now I wish my rebel was lifted more.
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78 Posts
I was reading a little more about the BDS lift and although I think the price of $2,200 is a great deal, I'm not to impressed that it is a 4" lift and it only accommodates 35" tires.
Before I get slammed, let me explain. Mopar offers a 2" and a 4" lift for the Ram 1500s without air suspension. If you purchase either of these lifts at the dealer and have the dealer install them, it does not void the warranty. The 2" lift accommodates 33" tires and the 4" lift accommodates 35" tires.
Now since the Rebel already has 33" tires on it, than it seems like the 4" BDS lift actually only gives you 2"s of actual lift since it only accommodates a 35" tire. If you actually gained a true 4"s from where the Rebel sits now, than we should be able to go up more than 2 tire sizes. With an actual gain of 4"s, it seems like a 37" tire would be more of a proper size.
With all that said. A 4" lift for $2,200 seems like a great deal. But a 2" lift for $2,200 is expensive. I had actually talked to my dealer about installing the Mopar 2" lift on my 2012 Ram 1500 a few months ago and it was going to be around $1,500 installed.
On a final thought..... Mopar offers lifts for the normal 1500s right now. It might be worth waiting a year or so to see if Mopar comes out with a lift for the Rebel. A Mopar lift that is dealer installed will not void your warranty.
Before I get slammed, let me explain. Mopar offers a 2" and a 4" lift for the Ram 1500s without air suspension. If you purchase either of these lifts at the dealer and have the dealer install them, it does not void the warranty. The 2" lift accommodates 33" tires and the 4" lift accommodates 35" tires.
Now since the Rebel already has 33" tires on it, than it seems like the 4" BDS lift actually only gives you 2"s of actual lift since it only accommodates a 35" tire. If you actually gained a true 4"s from where the Rebel sits now, than we should be able to go up more than 2 tire sizes. With an actual gain of 4"s, it seems like a 37" tire would be more of a proper size.
With all that said. A 4" lift for $2,200 seems like a great deal. But a 2" lift for $2,200 is expensive. I had actually talked to my dealer about installing the Mopar 2" lift on my 2012 Ram 1500 a few months ago and it was going to be around $1,500 installed.
On a final thought..... Mopar offers lifts for the normal 1500s right now. It might be worth waiting a year or so to see if Mopar comes out with a lift for the Rebel. A Mopar lift that is dealer installed will not void your warranty.
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Ok here are the facts for anyone trying to lift the rebel:
1.) The 4 inch lift ads 4 inches to the stock configuration by using new steering knuckles and spacers on top of the air shocks along with drop down brackets.
2.) the spacers used between the differential and axle shafts will produce vibrations and a weak link in the most stressed area of the front drive line delivery system.
3.) Using anything bigger than a 35" tire will cause serious calibration problems with your gearing and computer programming.
4.) The lift kit does and will void driveline and suspension factory warranties.( just try to have a cv joint repaired under warranty on the front drive, Just try it! they will say no.
5.) You should really be looking to buy the power wagon if your wanting a higher lifted version.
6.) (MASS REBEL)Your dealer is ripping you a new one on that 2 inch suspension installation which proves everything they are saying to you is an empty promise about the warranty.
* Get performance and Engineering minded before you ruin a $50,000 truck with a bogus lift that provides absolutely no more wheel travel than stock.
* Do not buy a new truck like this to lift, do that with your old 2012, you will depreciate the value of your new truck quicker than you can say "FIAT!"
1.) The 4 inch lift ads 4 inches to the stock configuration by using new steering knuckles and spacers on top of the air shocks along with drop down brackets.
2.) the spacers used between the differential and axle shafts will produce vibrations and a weak link in the most stressed area of the front drive line delivery system.
3.) Using anything bigger than a 35" tire will cause serious calibration problems with your gearing and computer programming.
4.) The lift kit does and will void driveline and suspension factory warranties.( just try to have a cv joint repaired under warranty on the front drive, Just try it! they will say no.
5.) You should really be looking to buy the power wagon if your wanting a higher lifted version.
6.) (MASS REBEL)Your dealer is ripping you a new one on that 2 inch suspension installation which proves everything they are saying to you is an empty promise about the warranty.
* Get performance and Engineering minded before you ruin a $50,000 truck with a bogus lift that provides absolutely no more wheel travel than stock.
* Do not buy a new truck like this to lift, do that with your old 2012, you will depreciate the value of your new truck quicker than you can say "FIAT!"
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78 Posts
First thing is first, let me apologize to the rest of this site for this BS. 4XTEk, you are obviously upset about your ridiculous post in the other topic regarding my truck being debadged and my comment correcting you.
Now in honor of you (4XTEK), I went out to my truck and double checked a few things. I opened the hood and I looked at my engine and it's still a Hemi even though I took the Hemi badge off the fender, I tried the 4 wheel drive and it still works even though I removed the 4x4 badge off the tailgate and even though I did remove the Rebel badge off the tailgate, it's still a Rebel not a "strippo work deluxe truclk" as you stated it would be without having the badges. And if you think those badges are worth $5k as stated in the other topic, I wil sell them to you for half price at $2,500 and I'm even willing to negotiate that price.
Now a lesson on warranties. Any Mopar accessory that is dealer installed does NOT void your warranty. Now the key words are has to be dealer purchased accessory and dealer installed. Secondly, installing a lift kit does not void your drivetrain warranty (notice I ignored your comment earlier about this, but if you want to be schooled on this, so be it). However, it will void your u-joints, cv joints, steering rack or steering box (depends on the vehicle), ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings (basically all your steering and affiliated parts). Now although the wheel bearings would be voided as well as cv or u-joints (steering joints depending on the vehicle) as well as the u-joints in the driveshafts would be voided, your ring & pinion shouldn't be voided unless your dealer is just being difficult and the tranny, transfer and engine are also not voided. Now if you were stuck in 2' of mud and blew something and the dealer can prove it was pure abuse as a result of your modifications, than yes it is voided. But the trucks that are lifted and do light off-roading and don't have mud packed into every crevice or scrapes and dents on the undercarriage should have no problems.
Now you probably noticed that I didn't mention anything about shocks or springs and the reason is simple, if you lifted it than you replaced these parts with aftermarket parts. I hope I didn't have to mention this, but after your comment on my debadging, I thought I better.
Now as far as lifts go. Like I was stating before, Mopar makes a 2" and a 4" lift for the Ram 1500 without having air ride. The 2" lift is more of a leveling kit than an actual lift if you really read up on it and it only accomadatess a 33" tire which is what the Rebel has stock and if you have stock 20" wheels on your 1500, than you are basically at a 33" tire also. In short, if you are running the 20" wheels, you are more leveling and gaining nothing. Now the 4" lift offered accomadates 35" tires which is the exact same thing the BDS kit is offering for the Rebel.
My point I was making earlier, is that the Rebel already sits where the 2" lift would put it and it is already using the tires the 2" accommodates. With that said, it appears that the 4" BDS is putting the Rebel exactly where the 4" Mopar lift would put a normal Ram 1500 without air ride and accomadates the same size tire on both lifts.
Now since you mentioned it already, let's discuss the Power Wagon. I almost purchased one several years ago and I knew I would be lifting the truck within the first year after purchasing it and did a lot of research on lifts. The Power Wagon comes thru with a small lift and sits higher than the normal 2500s. In my research years ago I recall several companies mentioning in their advertisements that their lifts were 2"s smaller than advertised if installed in a Power Wagon as you were replacing the parts that gave it the extra height over a normal 2500. Example: a 6" lift in a normal 2500 would actually only increase 4"s in a Power Wagon.
I'm reading the lifts for normal Ram 1500s and what they offer and I'm reading the info the BDS is advertising and it seems like it's the Power Wagon problem all over again. Since the truck already sits higher, you don't gain the full 4"s, you only gain half of it as you are more than likely replacing parts (such as the knuckles) that are giving it the height over a normal 1500s.
As far as your tire size problem and gearing problem and your computer programming problem, call your tire manufacturer and ask for the RPM (Revolutions Per Mile) for the exact tire size and model of tire you are using. It's a 3 digit number that any dealer can change in your computer with their handheld computer. It takes about 5 minutes but unfortunately most dealers have a half hour minimum charge. It's been a while, but for some odd reason I think the number was in the body computer instead of the PCM or TCM. I don't remember why, I just remember thinking that it didn't make sense where it was.
As far as pinion angles and driveshaft angles go, I was measuring these with a straight edge and a ruler when I started doing them. If done correctly along with your caster, camber and toe you can put just about any size tire on without a vibration. The main problem you are going to have with larger tires is wheel bearing and ball joint failure. Than of course your tie rods and other steering components follow suit.
Now I hope we cleared up this issue. I joined this website to learn as much as I can about a brand new model of Ram that has very limited information about it, not to get into a schooling lessons with someone over dumb comments.
Now in honor of you (4XTEK), I went out to my truck and double checked a few things. I opened the hood and I looked at my engine and it's still a Hemi even though I took the Hemi badge off the fender, I tried the 4 wheel drive and it still works even though I removed the 4x4 badge off the tailgate and even though I did remove the Rebel badge off the tailgate, it's still a Rebel not a "strippo work deluxe truclk" as you stated it would be without having the badges. And if you think those badges are worth $5k as stated in the other topic, I wil sell them to you for half price at $2,500 and I'm even willing to negotiate that price.
Now a lesson on warranties. Any Mopar accessory that is dealer installed does NOT void your warranty. Now the key words are has to be dealer purchased accessory and dealer installed. Secondly, installing a lift kit does not void your drivetrain warranty (notice I ignored your comment earlier about this, but if you want to be schooled on this, so be it). However, it will void your u-joints, cv joints, steering rack or steering box (depends on the vehicle), ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings (basically all your steering and affiliated parts). Now although the wheel bearings would be voided as well as cv or u-joints (steering joints depending on the vehicle) as well as the u-joints in the driveshafts would be voided, your ring & pinion shouldn't be voided unless your dealer is just being difficult and the tranny, transfer and engine are also not voided. Now if you were stuck in 2' of mud and blew something and the dealer can prove it was pure abuse as a result of your modifications, than yes it is voided. But the trucks that are lifted and do light off-roading and don't have mud packed into every crevice or scrapes and dents on the undercarriage should have no problems.
Now you probably noticed that I didn't mention anything about shocks or springs and the reason is simple, if you lifted it than you replaced these parts with aftermarket parts. I hope I didn't have to mention this, but after your comment on my debadging, I thought I better.
Now as far as lifts go. Like I was stating before, Mopar makes a 2" and a 4" lift for the Ram 1500 without having air ride. The 2" lift is more of a leveling kit than an actual lift if you really read up on it and it only accomadatess a 33" tire which is what the Rebel has stock and if you have stock 20" wheels on your 1500, than you are basically at a 33" tire also. In short, if you are running the 20" wheels, you are more leveling and gaining nothing. Now the 4" lift offered accomadates 35" tires which is the exact same thing the BDS kit is offering for the Rebel.
My point I was making earlier, is that the Rebel already sits where the 2" lift would put it and it is already using the tires the 2" accommodates. With that said, it appears that the 4" BDS is putting the Rebel exactly where the 4" Mopar lift would put a normal Ram 1500 without air ride and accomadates the same size tire on both lifts.
Now since you mentioned it already, let's discuss the Power Wagon. I almost purchased one several years ago and I knew I would be lifting the truck within the first year after purchasing it and did a lot of research on lifts. The Power Wagon comes thru with a small lift and sits higher than the normal 2500s. In my research years ago I recall several companies mentioning in their advertisements that their lifts were 2"s smaller than advertised if installed in a Power Wagon as you were replacing the parts that gave it the extra height over a normal 2500. Example: a 6" lift in a normal 2500 would actually only increase 4"s in a Power Wagon.
I'm reading the lifts for normal Ram 1500s and what they offer and I'm reading the info the BDS is advertising and it seems like it's the Power Wagon problem all over again. Since the truck already sits higher, you don't gain the full 4"s, you only gain half of it as you are more than likely replacing parts (such as the knuckles) that are giving it the height over a normal 1500s.
As far as your tire size problem and gearing problem and your computer programming problem, call your tire manufacturer and ask for the RPM (Revolutions Per Mile) for the exact tire size and model of tire you are using. It's a 3 digit number that any dealer can change in your computer with their handheld computer. It takes about 5 minutes but unfortunately most dealers have a half hour minimum charge. It's been a while, but for some odd reason I think the number was in the body computer instead of the PCM or TCM. I don't remember why, I just remember thinking that it didn't make sense where it was.
As far as pinion angles and driveshaft angles go, I was measuring these with a straight edge and a ruler when I started doing them. If done correctly along with your caster, camber and toe you can put just about any size tire on without a vibration. The main problem you are going to have with larger tires is wheel bearing and ball joint failure. Than of course your tie rods and other steering components follow suit.
Now I hope we cleared up this issue. I joined this website to learn as much as I can about a brand new model of Ram that has very limited information about it, not to get into a schooling lessons with someone over dumb comments.
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So your admitting it voids all kinda of warranties on the front end which these trucks are notoriously bad for if not dangerous, remember the recent recall for steering failures? And your recommending to stress these areas out even more with a lift (this is not a suspension). and you honestly think the dealer is going to back you up in another city? Think again, the only dealer to honor that warranty is the one who installs it.
Plus you are totally wrong about the shocks and the at that (erector set kit) works, it merely spaces everything out to create lift , there are no new shocks, just a spacer similar to a coil spacer. Your theory of gaining height is way off, it's 4" over stock that's it, then you have the same adjustments as before you lifted it. I have installed many of these kits! Have you? Do you have a shop? If your 21 put the lift on, if your wise and mature enjoy the great truck that ram built and engineered to work together.
Also is the video below you? Sounds familiar. #maybeyaskawoman
Plus you are totally wrong about the shocks and the at that (erector set kit) works, it merely spaces everything out to create lift , there are no new shocks, just a spacer similar to a coil spacer. Your theory of gaining height is way off, it's 4" over stock that's it, then you have the same adjustments as before you lifted it. I have installed many of these kits! Have you? Do you have a shop? If your 21 put the lift on, if your wise and mature enjoy the great truck that ram built and engineered to work together.
Also is the video below you? Sounds familiar. #maybeyaskawoman
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78 Posts
I don't know what's more ridiculous at this point, your posts or me even entertaining this BS.
For starters, I drive tractor trailer and if you can't figure out by now that I wasn't always a truck driver and I'm not a back yard mechanic who got together with a couple of his buddies to see what we could do to our vehicles on our own, than you will never get it.
As far as warranties go, you mentioned voiding the drivetrain warranty and than you said drive line. I hope you know there is a difference between the two.
If a Mopar lift is purchased and installed by the dealer, it will NOT void your warranty and you can go to any dealer to have the warranty work done. Secondly, if your tie rods, wheel bearings, steering rack, cv joints wear out quicker than normal, as long as your mileage or time has not expired on your factory warranty, than its covered.
Now if you by a lift like this BDS Kit or any other aftermarket brand and have a garage or even your dealer install it, the lift itself will come with a limited warranty, but you are on your own if you need your tie rods, wheel bearings, steering rack, cv joints, etc....replaced. You will own this bill parts & labor. It's not an approved accessory and regardless of who installs it, the lift will be blamed for the premature wear and not covered under your factory warranty.
Now simply put, all Mopar accessories are approved for your vehicle and if those accessories are purchased and installed at the dealer than they are considered approved and installed correctly. Therefor any repair that might arise in the future will be covered under your factory warranty providing it hasn't expired.
Now before you start correcting me about lift facts for the Rebel, keep in mind that we have been discussing 2 different lifts for my previous truck as well as the BDS Kit for the Rebel and than you mentioned the Power Wagon which I responded about the Ram 2500. Now let's ignore everything that doesn't pertain to my previous Ram 1500 and Rebel and we are still talking about 3 separate lift kits. So if you are going to correct me, make sure that what I posted doesn't pertain to any of the 3 lifts.
Now I'm man enough to admit I completely overlooked the driveshaft spacer in the BDS kit. I'm 100% against spacers. Take the driveshaft to a machine shop and have it lengthened.
Now you seem to be implying that you work at a shop that installs a lot of lifts. You also mentioned previously about problems with calibration, gearing and computer issues. What I find interesting about this is that you seem to have zero knowledge about the 3 - digit RPM number that you can get from the tire manufacturer. The reprogramming of this number lets your computer know the exact tire size you have installed which allows the computer to compensate for the differences and even makes your speedo 100% accurate. If you do a gear swap you can also put that in the computer as well.
Now I wouldn't expect the average weekend / backyard mechanic to know about the 3 - digit RPM, but I would expect someone who is implying that they install lifts professionally to know. Between your strippo deluxe comment about debadging and your zero knowledge of this small fact, I think we know where you fit in at this point.
One final comment and I'm done on this subject. I have not posted one comment telling anyone to install a lift. From the start all I've wanted to know is if the BDS lift actually increased it the full 4"s as listed and I've stated my reasons multiple times in comparing it with the other lifts. Every lift I have ever installed was measured before I lifted it and again afterwards with the original tires back on to see what the actual gain was.
For starters, I drive tractor trailer and if you can't figure out by now that I wasn't always a truck driver and I'm not a back yard mechanic who got together with a couple of his buddies to see what we could do to our vehicles on our own, than you will never get it.
As far as warranties go, you mentioned voiding the drivetrain warranty and than you said drive line. I hope you know there is a difference between the two.
If a Mopar lift is purchased and installed by the dealer, it will NOT void your warranty and you can go to any dealer to have the warranty work done. Secondly, if your tie rods, wheel bearings, steering rack, cv joints wear out quicker than normal, as long as your mileage or time has not expired on your factory warranty, than its covered.
Now if you by a lift like this BDS Kit or any other aftermarket brand and have a garage or even your dealer install it, the lift itself will come with a limited warranty, but you are on your own if you need your tie rods, wheel bearings, steering rack, cv joints, etc....replaced. You will own this bill parts & labor. It's not an approved accessory and regardless of who installs it, the lift will be blamed for the premature wear and not covered under your factory warranty.
Now simply put, all Mopar accessories are approved for your vehicle and if those accessories are purchased and installed at the dealer than they are considered approved and installed correctly. Therefor any repair that might arise in the future will be covered under your factory warranty providing it hasn't expired.
Now before you start correcting me about lift facts for the Rebel, keep in mind that we have been discussing 2 different lifts for my previous truck as well as the BDS Kit for the Rebel and than you mentioned the Power Wagon which I responded about the Ram 2500. Now let's ignore everything that doesn't pertain to my previous Ram 1500 and Rebel and we are still talking about 3 separate lift kits. So if you are going to correct me, make sure that what I posted doesn't pertain to any of the 3 lifts.
Now I'm man enough to admit I completely overlooked the driveshaft spacer in the BDS kit. I'm 100% against spacers. Take the driveshaft to a machine shop and have it lengthened.
Now you seem to be implying that you work at a shop that installs a lot of lifts. You also mentioned previously about problems with calibration, gearing and computer issues. What I find interesting about this is that you seem to have zero knowledge about the 3 - digit RPM number that you can get from the tire manufacturer. The reprogramming of this number lets your computer know the exact tire size you have installed which allows the computer to compensate for the differences and even makes your speedo 100% accurate. If you do a gear swap you can also put that in the computer as well.
Now I wouldn't expect the average weekend / backyard mechanic to know about the 3 - digit RPM, but I would expect someone who is implying that they install lifts professionally to know. Between your strippo deluxe comment about debadging and your zero knowledge of this small fact, I think we know where you fit in at this point.
One final comment and I'm done on this subject. I have not posted one comment telling anyone to install a lift. From the start all I've wanted to know is if the BDS lift actually increased it the full 4"s as listed and I've stated my reasons multiple times in comparing it with the other lifts. Every lift I have ever installed was measured before I lifted it and again afterwards with the original tires back on to see what the actual gain was.
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That kit is not for the rebel.
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